Peru is a foodie’s delight. Spread across the country there is a fascinating array of different cuisines, from Chinese-Peruvian fusion food on the coast, through hearty mountain stews in the Andes, to fried plantain and fresh river fish in the Amazon. Living as an expat in Peru will be an unending journey of gastronomic discovery.
Haute cuisine in Peru is now considered to be some of the best in the world. The dazzling range of indigenous produce on offer in the country has inspired top Peruvian chefs to create a fusion cuisine which is now at the top of its game.
Lima is undoubtedly the hub of Peru’s nouveau cuisine, with restaurants owned by maverick chef Gastón Acurio especially popular for their willingness to push the culinary envelope whilst still keeping their dishes uniquely Peruvian.
If you want to understand the importance of cuy (guinea pig) in the Peruvian diet, look no further than Cusco cathedral. Inside there is a painting depicting Christ’s Last Supper. Jesus and his disciples are solemnly dining, not on bread as we’re used to seeing, but on guinea pig. Peruvian Catholicism is a unique syncretism of pre-Colombian and Spanish Christian elements, and this example shows better than any other how crucial cuy is, and always has been, in Peruvian culture and cuisine.
On a practical level too, raising guinea pigs makes absolute sense for Peruvians - they don’t need much space, breed like crazy and are low in fat. Even in cities, it’s not uncommon to raise guinea pigs for food at home.
Its taste has been compared to rabbit and it’s usually served fried or baked with the head still intact. Not one for the squeamish.
Situated next to the country’s principal port of Callao on Peru’s pacific coast, Lima has been attracting East Asian immigrants for over two centuries. Their legacy is a uniquely Peruvian fusion cuisine known as chifa (thought to come from the Mandarin jiǔfàn, meaning food and drink). The story goes that, arriving without any fresh produce, the Chinese were forced to adapt their cuisine to the strange local ingredients which differed substantially enough to those in China to create a wholly separate culinary tradition.
You’ll find chifa restaurants all over the country, though in Lima they’re especially common. They’re also cheap, and great for vegetarians and vegans, who can easily substitute ingredients.
As soon as you get into a local Peruvian market (something everybody should do) you’ll be struck by the near infinite range of produce on offer. As if to illustrate this, you’ll find stallholders who specialise only in potatoes, purely because there are so many varieties - literally thousands in Peru alone - to choose from. If you speak to them, they’ll recommend the best types for roasting, boiling or frying as well as telling you which dishes they go best in. If you’re used to potatoes being round and brown, prepare for an eye-opener: you’ll find purple, black, blue and even bright pink varieties here and their shapes resemble everything from spiky pinecones to knobbly worms.
There’s a similar range of corn - the first thing about which you’ll notice is the enormous size of the kernels which can be six times as large as those the rest of the world is used to. Peruvians eat choclo (corn on the cob) almost every day - this is Peru’s true street food. Like potatoes, Peruvian corn comes in several colours, including blue and red. The purple variety is used to make chicha morada, a delicious cold drink that combines pineapple, cinnamon and cloves.
The native capsicum chili rocoto is ubiquitous in Peru - and you’re likely to find the cheesy rocoto relleno in practically every local restaurant you go to. Though it looks incredibly similar to the kind of bell peppers most of us are used to, it’s actually unbelievably hot - more than 10 times spicier than a jalapeño. It is however a wonderfully versatile ingredient - its heat diminishes significantly when cooked, meaning it’s used for everything from spicy chili sauces to warming Andean stews.
Something else you’re likely to see just about everywhere is the wildly popular Inca Cola. Here your eyes do not deceive you - this nuclear-coloured fizzy drink will give you the feeling your teeth are melting away as you drink it (and they probably are). It’s every bit as sugary as it looks.